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A lighthouse tour south of San Francisco captivates travelers with seaside villages, ocean-view campgrounds and an occasional ghost story

ANOTHER WAVE EXPLODES ON THE rocks below and the ever-present wind snarls plumes of spray in to the white hair of an angry sea god. Oh, to be snuggling inside the lightkeeper's house in front of a roaring fire. But our docent probably won't go for that, so I'll make a note to remember my jacket next time.

We're here on a thumb of land about 50 miles south of San Francisco, marveling at the setting of the intrepid Pigeon Point Lighthouse. The path we followed hugs the western edge of the peninsula below Baghdad-by-the-Bay, passing through small seaside communities bounded by sometimes mountainous surf and peppered with tales of rum-running and ghosts. With an RV park at each end of the trip and two in between, who could ask for anything more?

For those staying at the clifftop San Francisco RV Resort in Pacifica, leaving might be the toughest part of their trip. After one last call on Mazzetti's Bakery at Manor and Oceana, and an e-mail check via the wireless Internet, it's time to point Old Paint south - that's land to port, ocean to starboard - in order to arrive in Montara before 9:30 AM.

Point Montara Light Station stoically stands watch as it has since 1875. The Victorian lightkeepers house is now part of a hostel, thus the grounds are open only between 7:30 AM-9:30 AM and 5.-00 PM-9.-30 PM. The light station served as a coastal lookout during World War II and is now a popular spot to survey the ocean for 40-foot-long gray whales cruising to and from their neonatal units in a Baja lagoon (southbound December to February; northbound March to May). If possible, bring binoculars or a camera with a telephoto lens.

The heart of early lighthouses is a beehive-shaped collection of glass panels comprising a Fresnel lens (freh-nel, the "s" is silent). Each multi-prism panel in the lens focuses a central light source into a powerful beam, much like taillight lenses produce bright glows from small bulbs. As the lens rotates around its light source, each panel comes to a position directly between the light and the viewer, and the light appears to flash. The length of time between flashes defines each light's unique "characteristic." Montara's light was a Fourth Order lens; First Order is the largest. Many Fresnel lenses, like Point Montara's, have been replaced by automated marine beacons, although original lenses often remain in place.

Fitzgerald Marine Reserve hugs a rocky intertidal reef from just south of Point Montara to Pillar Point, about three miles in all. Exit State Highway 1 at California Avenue.

You either love the scent of the shoreline at low tide, or for the sake of your significant other, take the high road above coves where Canadian rum-runners off-loaded prohibited pleasures.

The low road is the realm of mossy chiton, and western gulls flocking to their surf-line buffet. Note that collecting animal and plant species is prohibited, and pets are not allowed in the reserve. But the cat who walks the fence near Fitzgerald's entrance has greeted me twice, and maybe he'll take a shine to you, too.

A former speakeasy, die nearby Moss Beach Distillery hosts Sunday brunch on its ocean-view patio, complete with blankets when needed - and the Blue Lady ghost when she's hungry.

Pillar Point RV Park, south of the entrance to Pillar Point Harbor, has 74 sites for self-contained RVs and a drop box for registration. An asphalt path winds north past grassy hillocks to Pillar Point Harbor, and the duet between fog horn and screeching seagulls comes at no additional charge. If you want to drive into the harbor, they have an RV lot. (Also consider 76-space Pelican Point RV Park at the south end of Half Moon Bay.)

Huck Finn Sportfishing, near the main pier, can book whale-watching cruises and fishing excursions - they rent tackle and sell one-day fishing licenses, as well. The nearby wooden pier leads to commercial fishing boats that often sell their fresh catch at dockside. Chalk boards indicate the numbered berth of each boat and the type of fish for sale. Ask if they clean and fillet.

Barbara's Fish Trap is kitschy, prices are right and views are unobstructed; perfect for those, like yours truly, who don't want to put on the grill mitts. Too many years in the restaurant business, I guess.

Full to the gills, it was time to keep an appointment with a kayaker. A short trip of many turns ending at California Canoe & Kayak jumps around back streets bordered by old boat yards and the occasional Ahab-to-be trowling the finishing touches on a ferro-cement dream.

California Canoe & Kayaks Ken Howell, who, I discovered, knows the wild-ocean paddlers who introduced me to kayaking, recommends beginners sign up for a weekend harbor excursion pairing a veteran kayaker with a novice. Novices won't get out to the mountainous surf at Mavericks that draws the world s best big-wave riders, but the seal s-eye view from a kayak can still be addicting. You'll love the hot showers after your paddle.

Back on State Highway 1, Half Moon Bay's southern arm can be seen in the blue-tinged distance. Don't get lost in reverie, or you'll miss a treat, especially if you're traveling with kids.

"Many RVs pull in because of the parking," the owner of Sea Horse Ranch tells us. Sounds good, because no kid large or small can resist a pony. Not all the horses are ponies, of course, but a ride along an oceanside trail to Dunes Beach sure brings forth the smiles.

Half Moon Bay is a metropolis among seaside communities owing to its location at the intersection of Highway 1 and Highway 92 coming over the mountains from San Francisco Bay. All manner of shops bunch together downtown, and recently reconstructed Cunha's Country Store is a landmark. Cunha's, destroyed by a devastating fire, re-opened in May 2004 with a block party to beat the band. Try Cunha's deli for lunch, or for dinner to go.

Half Moon Bay also hosts auto- and air shows, a Pumpkin Festival (the orange critters can go over 1,000 pounds), repertory theater, a links-style golf course designed by Arnold Palmer and renowned flower growers.

Small farms dot the inland side of Highway 1 below Half Moon Bay, and a series of tiny state beaches with names such as Bean Hollow fill in a narrow strip between blacktop and breakers. Occasionally, a beach house peeks over omnipresent cypress trees, or a fruit stand plastered with signs offers strawberries, cherries and fresh peas.

Midway between Half Moon Bay and the second lighthouse of our trip, we come to the turnoff to Pescadero ("fishmonger" in Spanish). With no time to detour to Stage Road, Duarte's artichoke soup will have to wait, though perhaps not for you.

Costanoa, three miles below Pigeon Point lighthouse, is a resort on the east side of the highway offering rooms, tent cabins and RV sites with ocean views. Mind the speed bumps, which can be camouflaged by dappled sunlight. If you can unhook your trailer, or if you trailer a car, you might set up camp before making the short return drive north to the lighthouse, which is easily seen from the highway.

Pigeon Point was named for the clipper ship Carrier Pigeon, thought to be the first ship to crash at the site previously known as Whale Point. The schooner Seabird, come to rescue Captain Azariah Doane and his soaking wet crew, also ran aground.

The interior of Pigeon Points 115-foot tall sentinel is closed for lengthy repairs as of this writing. Hopefully, its restoration will allow viewing of the First Order Fresnel lens, all 16 feet and 8,000 pounds of it. Until then, docents will lead half-hour tours of buildings and grounds, weather permitting. Bring a jacket. And don't worry. A 24inch automated Aero Beacon now flashes warnings to passing ships.

Having filmed and digitized the romance of another elegant lighthouse, Costanoa beckons.

In the rising heat of a steam room at one of Costanoa s Comfort Stations, will you imagine yourself under sail along the rocky coast, pleading for the sight of Pigeon Point s characteristic flash? If so, you might dream of the keeper on his rounds through passing banks of fog, climbing to refill the lardoil lamp so you and your imaginary crew will not star in another ghost story, like the one about the lightkeeper's wife. Hers is a tale for another night. Sleep well.

San Mateo County CVB, '(800) 288-4748, visitsanmateocounty.com. Circle 211 on Reader Service Card.