We've got nothinq against bellboys, valet parking and turndown service. But if you're looking for a laid-back fitness getaway without the expensive and often unnecessary bells and whistles, the following seven rustic getaways fit the bill.
From the high peaks of central California to the waterfall-filled gorges of southern Ohio, each of these retreats is so far off the beaten path that you can start your hike from your back door. All prices are per night, double occupancy, unless otherwise noted.
1. BEST WILDERNESS RETREAT
Rock Creek Lakes Resort, Rock Creek Canyon, Calif.
* The 'hood Rock Creek Lakes Resort is located near the end of a little-known nine-mile canyon road off California's long and lonely Highway 395 in the eastern Sierra Nevada.
* Room with a view The resort - a cluster of 11 cabins built from 1955-2001 - sits beneath towering pines near a looking-glass lake stocked with trout. Cabins have modern kitchens and bathrooms.
* Calorie burners The trails begin at 9,685-foot-high Rock Creek Lake, a turquoise jewel; just up the canyon are dozens more lakes. En route are wildflower meadows, rushing streams and staggering views of craggy peaks, cliffs and glaciers. From the summits of the peaks, you can even glimpse Mount Whitney on a clear day. Mountain bikers can test their mettle on Sand Canyon and Lower Rock Creek trails.
* Healthy eats The diner at Rock Creek Lakes Resort serves great chili and soups made from scratch.
* Zone-out ops Fisherwomen come for the trout and catch enough for dinner if they're lucky (or enjoy a day by a glorious lake or creek if they're not), while the weary and stressed-out are drawn to the peace and quiet, fresh air and friendly folk - all reminiscent of some bygone decade.
* Don't miss! The same tiny diner at the Rock Creek Lakes Resort has been a mecca for pie lovers for nearly 50 years. The pie-eyed" order slices of rhubarb, strawberry, peach, apple, banana cream, fresh nectarine, Cheddar pear or boysenberry in summer; cranberry walnut, maple pecan and pumpkin are fall favorites. Each pie is made fresh that morning; in fact, the resort's 'pie ladies" begin their day at 4 a.m. Some cyclists ride all the way from the ski and summer resort town of Mammoth Lakes - about 25 miles plus 3,000 feet of elevation - just for a slice. By noon, the pies are usually sold out. Post-pie, many satisfied customers retire to their cabin decks for an afternoon nap.
* Details One-bedroom cabins, $110; two-bedroom cabins, from $142 (quadruple occupancy; 760-935-4311, rock creeklake.com) - Nancy Gottesman
2. BEST BACKWOODS RETREAT
Ash Cave Cabins, South Bloomingville, Ohio
* The 'hood Set on a 63-acre private forest, the cabins are adjacent to Ohio's 2,331-acre Hocking Hills State Park. Filled with towering cliffs, breathtaking waterfalls, steep-walled gorges, shallow caves and deep hemlock forests, it's all - can you believe it? - just an hour southeast of Columbus.
* Room with a view Check into a "Love Bug" cedar cabin nestled in an acre of woods, with a fireplace, fully equipped kitchen and balcony overlooking miles of hemlocks. With a stack of firewood by your front door, you'll have no trouble keeping the home fires burning.
* Calorie burners Lace up your hiking boots for the historic Buckeye Trail, part of the 24 miles of trails that run through the park. Take a hike through the scenic valleys of Cedar Falls and continue by the massive rock formations and rushing waterfalls of Old Man's Cave. Keep an eye peeled for deer, fox or coyote (or even a black bear!), or explore any of the other nearby natural areas. Enjoy horseback riding and guided rappelling at Hocking State Forest, more hiking at Conkle's Hollow State Nature Preserve and canoeing at Lake Hope State Park. All-day nature photography workshops also are available, so you can capture the sights and get a workout.
* Healthy eats Grill (outside) or cook (inside) the cabin, or head to Grouse Nest Restaurant for hearty gourmet dishes like Grilled Shiitake Polenta and, for dessert, Dreaming of Summer, a peach tart with raspberry coulis and champagne sorbet.
* Zone-out ops Soak in the Jacuzzi sheltered by the cabin's glass atrium, and settle back for a view of the forest and stars.
* Don't miss! The half-mile hike to Ash Cave. The state's largest recessed cave (a shallow cave with a wide mouth), it even has its own 90-foot tumbling waterfall!
* Details From $155 (800-222-4655, ashcave.com)
Gabrielle Gayagoy
3. BEST WILDLIFE RETREAT
Sylvan Lake Resort, Custer State Park, S.D.
* The 'hood The jaw-dropping drive through the Black Hills to reach placid Sylvan Lake follows Needles Highway and threads up and around massive granite spires.
* Room with a view Tucked at the end of the road is Sylvan Lake Resort, 40 miles southwest of Rapid City, S.D. This classic mountain inn neighboring the lake's boulder-fringed shores offers ultracozy rooms and rustic cabins.
* Calorie burners Sylvan Lake Lodge is the perfect "base camp" for hiking Harney Peak, the state's highest at 7,242 feet. Roam the eerie and exhilarating trail through the mist-shrouded Cathedral Spires at daybreak en route to Harney Peak and panoramic views.
* Healthy eats The dining room begs for an upscale splurge on local fare like buffalo, trout and walleye.
* Zone-out ops After dinner, head to the lake and watch the moon rise over the spires. Or sink into a comfy armchair in the old-fashioned lobby.
* Don't miss! Ride horseback from nearby Blue Bell Lodge & Resort (a steal at $33 for two hours) and view bison and mountain goats roaming the state park.
* Details From $100 for rooms; $115 for cabins with fireplaces (800-658-3530, custerresorts.com)
Elaine Glusac
4. BEST NEW-AGE RETREAT
The Historic Taos Inn, Taos, N.M.
* The 'hood Nestled beneath the soaring Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Taos is an affordable and more rugged version of Santa Fe, located 70 miles south. New Mexico's less pricey counterculture mountain enclave, Taos has become a mecca for artists, New Agers and A-list celebs, with prices that appeal to the former two constituencies.
* Room with a view This inn is actually a collection of several 19th-century adobe homes clustered around the original town well now a fountain. It's like being in your own home, only better. Rooms feature kiva fireplaces and regional furnishings.
* Calorie burners Staking the middle ground between the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the Rio Grande river gorge, Taos' trails chart both heights and depths. For Alpine wildlife, wander the wooded Devisadero Loop Trail above town or hike the Taos Ski Valley's well-marked paths.
* Healthy eats The inn's popular restaurant, Doc Martin's, serves authentic Southwestern cuisine that's guaranteed to fire up your taste buds.
* Zone-out ops Taos has more New-Age practitioners than any town east of Sedona. Get your chart done or, for the ultimate zone-out, try past-life regression. Then unwind in the resort's Jacuzzi or outdoor pool.
* Don't miss! Wild Rivers Recreation Area, 35 miles north, where you can hike 800 feet down to the chasm and see the Rio Grande bounded by soaring canyon walls
* Details From $60; $125 for rooms with fireplaces (800-TAOS-INN, taosinn.com)
5. BEST CANYON RETREAT
Starved Rock Lodge, Starved Rock State Park, Utica, III.
* The 'hood Located 90 miles from Chicago, this geological surprise dips and bends around the Illinois River, shaped by torrents of melted glaciers that coursed the former flatland millions of years ago.
* Room with a view The stone-and-log lodge, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s using indigenous materials, has a towering stone fireplace and patio overlooking wooded riverbanks filled with deer and bald eagles. Or stay in a cozy cabin for two, complete with a fireplace.
* Calorie burners Hike to the marquee attraction -- Starved Rock, a 125-foot butte -- then pick a canyon to explore. Trails probe the cool inner sanctums of 18 sandstone-walled canyons, where you'll find steep gorges and waterfalls plunging from cliffs.
* Healthy eats. Feast on rib-warming regional fare (calories be damned!) at the lodge's old-fashioned restaurant.
* Zone-out ops Soak in the hot tub at the lodge, go for a swim in the indoor pool or get a massage.
* Don't miss! The trails to spectacular waterfalls in lower Kaskaskila, LaSalle and Illinois canyons.
* Details Lodge rooms from $95; cabins from $85 (800-868-7625, starvedrocklodge.com)
6. BEST LAKEFRONT RETREAT
Spider Lake Lodge Bed & Breakfast Inn, Hayward, Wis.
* The 'hood Hayward, a bohemian-accented town where backwoods fish-fry joints meet urban art galleries, is nestled in the heart of field-and-stream-happy Wisconsin about three hours from Minneapolis.
* Room with a view The seven-room Spider Lake Lodge, a 1923 hand-hewn log structure with two floor-to-ceiling fieldstone fireplaces, has cozy, antique-adorned bedrooms that also feature furnishings custom-made by the owners.
